Now that winter has set in, the items on my menu are requiring much more from me. No longer can I slice a perfect peach, garnish it minimally and call it good. It is time for me to put my skills to work.
This week I put myself to the task of a banana desert. I chose a caramelized banana bavarian inspired by Gordon Ramsey. It is a lovely use of the bavarian method as the banana's texture add a luxurious mouth feel. The banana's are rolled in sugar and caramelized before being pureed, bringing out the fruits richness. It is set over the top of a very thin, rum soaked layer of geniose.
Aside this desert are some very playful flavors. A quenelle of rich milk chocolate mousse flanks the banana making for a classic flavor combination. Move over a little and you'll find a pool of malted cream remenecent of a vanilla malted milk shake. Finally for a little snap, crackle, and pop a line of caramelized rice crispies sweeps across the plate.
Creating a dramatic line with a loose garnish is not my idea, but an idea I love no less. My friend Anjana spoke of this design factor from her experience at Mary Elaine's, but I first saw it at The Fat Duck made with toasted coconut aside a rhubarb parfait. It slipped from my mind until a recent dinner at Seattle's Veil restaurant. After an absolutely exhilarating 5 courses, the desserts came out. Across a plate that featured a date ice cream was this exact sweeping line made with caramelized oats. It was the final touch I was looking for.
I underestimated the selling power of banana's until selling out of this desert two nights ago when a group of 8 people ordered 7 of this dessert for their table.